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Hledání cesty

Hledání na Lezci

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Knihy
Adam Ondra vydává další knihu
Hory byly jejich osudem
Vychází autorizovaná biografie: Adam Ondra - Lezec tělem i duší

Závody

Žebříček
Cesty:
1.Ondra 12834
2.Konečný 12665
3.Vopat 11916
Bouldry:
1.Stráník 11653
2.Jungling 11050
3.Stráník 10928
Hory:
1.Zaoral 7676
2.Ondrášek 7313
3.Skopec 7070

Výsledky

Deníčky
4762 lezců
788262 cest
Nové přelezy:
Stroposkop 7C
Dej Si Laj 8A+
Torero Ext 8B
Working Cl 7c
Aggression 7b+
Bread & Sa 7c
Jarda Jágr 7C+/8A
Frndinka 7C+
Doly Modří 7C
Promenáda 10+

Stěny
V 16 - Plzeň
Big Wall - Praha 9 - Vysočany
Boulder Bar - Praha 7

Prodejny
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Perštýn - Praha 1
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Masarykova - Brno
Rock Point Plzeň Americká - Plzeň

Kontakt
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Annot

Francie není jen Buoux

Annot jsou to skály na jihu Francie, které kdysi navštívil Hop, a to se nemělo stát. Moc se mu zde totiž zalíbilo a tak nás mořil

a mořil, přesvědčoval, bájil a přesvědčoval, abychom tam jeli.

Anot je podivuhodná oblast s nezvyklým a velmi kvalitním pískovcem nacházející se na vápencovém jihu Francie. Čítá velké množství skalních bloků vysokých až 30 m nezvykle hladkého pískovce, který místní lezce donutil, na některých cestách, upravit cesty vysekáním chytů a stupů. Výsledkem je zvláštní, vyrovnané lezení po převážně jedno, dvou či tří prstových chytech, v krásné kopcovité krajině.



Annot připomíná české pískovce

Když už jsme nemohli tyto oslavné ódy vystát, tak jsme svolili, že tuto oblast také zařadíme na seznam skal, našeho putování. Hop šťasten zrušil hladovku a tak jsme se vydali podél jezera Lac Castilion, které napájí známou soutěsku Verdon, abychom navštívili nejslavnější (asi proto, že téměř jediné) francouzské pískovce. Slavné se staly když jsem zavítala řada známých lezců jako třeba Christian Brenna. Udělal cestu Vitamania 8c+ a Toni Lamprecht s jeho Tribal Dance 8c a přidal také bouldery Spectacle Sauvage 8a+ a la Morsure de la Petite Chanteuse 8b. Samozřejmě, že v této oblasti je spousta dalších cest k lezení a nejen takhle těžkých.



Stěny jsou menší tak do dvaceti metrů, ale písek je super kvality.

Skály, které se odlámaly z vrcholu kopce tyčícího se nad zvláštní město-vesnicí Annotem, nebudou našim lezcům asi příliš známé. Je to dáno tím, že jsou pískovcové a to je materiál, naprosto netradiční pro jih Francie.
 

 
Kompaknost donutila tvůrce cest místy něco přitesnout

Přístup:
Zanechat auto je dobré na plácku u nádraží a pak se již můžete vydat se na cestu k některému ze sektorů. Nejbližším sektorem na vlnité cestě do kopce je Le Zodiaque.



Přestože Hop nadšeně pobíhal, stále byl vpředu a ukazoval, kde a kudy je nejlépe jít a která stěna je nejúžasnější, my jsme zůstávali skeptičtí. Hop dále vysvětloval a z Lonely Planet průvodce předčítal, že jsou zde stovky cest, jedny z největších a nejchutnějších žab (frogus pikantus) a take, že nedaleko je Verdon, ale tam nejsou tak hezký vysekaný díry a tak to ani nemá cenu, tam jet. Nejdříve jsem mu neveřil a byl malikno zklamaný, ještě když se k tomu přidala průtrž mračen, tak jsem chtěl jet zpátky do Podolí, do lékárny. Ale pak nám Annot ukázal i přívětivější tvář. Slunce zasvítilo,trochu jsme se dostali k i lezení a musím říci, že pro pár dní možná i týden by se zde vertikální zábava jistě našla. 

Přehled sektorů:
§ les Meteores 25 krátkých cest od 5 do 7b+ (většinou šestky)
§ le Clemenceau 12 krátkých a dlouhých cest od 6a+ do 8c+ (5 min chůze).
§ le Zodiaque 20 krátkých asi 20m cest od 5+ do 7b+ (5 min chůze)
§ Bloc Operatoire 4 krátkých cest od  7a do 7b (5 min chůze). 
§ les Vaudois 6 krátkých, podhodnocených cest, od 5 do 8b (žádné šestky).
§ l’Etrave 5 středně dlouhých cest od 5+  do 7b+.
§ le Bestiaire 12 velmi pěkných, kratších cest od 6a do 7c+ (8 min chůze).
§ le Visage 3 krátké cesty od 6a do  6a+ (8 min chůze).
§ l’Airain 3 krátké cesty od 5 do  6b (10 min chůze).
§ les Pyramides 13 krátkých a delších cest od 4 do 6b+ (10 min chůze).
§ Jardin du Roi 10 krátkých cest  od 6a+ do  7b+ (20 min chůze).
§ les Oubliettes 13 cest od 6c+  do 8b+ (20 min chůze).
§ Rocher de la Balme/Dalle de la Beite 30 krátkých cest od 4 do 6b (většinou pětky 20 min chůze  ze Severo-západního cípu městečka.
Bouldering:
Mezi bloky s cestami je možné naleznout velké množství menších bloků s bouldery. Jsou zde čtyři boulder okruhy, značené v podobném stylu (barvami) jako ve Fontanableau. Jsou od nejlehčích k nejtěžším, 30 žlutých, 34 modrých, 23 červených a 12 černých boulderů. Na bloky na severo-západě je ještě několik boulderů do stupně 8b.

Klima:
Annot leží v nadmořské výšce kolem 700 metrů a nemá  tudíž pro léto tak horký klimat. V zimě tu můžete dokonce potkat i sníh. V létě naopak je lezení velmi příjemné, neboť lezení je možné většinou na bloky ze všech stran a tak se vždy najde nějaké lezení ve stínu.


 
Tahle Anotská žába měřila 110 cm a nesla nám dolů batohy

Průvodce:
Průvodce můžete kopit v Bar du Commerce.
Camp:
Camping la Ribiere je otevřen od 15 února do 15 listopadu, u skal se dá spát na více místech pod převislými sektory je několik bivaků.
Je snad dobré podotknout, že se nalézáte v jižní Francii, proto tedy nic z toho, co by mohlo lákat poberty,  nenechávat v autě.
Okolí:
Nacházíte se v kraji Cotte D Azur, kde je jistě možné najít spoustu zajímavého i pro dny odpočinku od lezení. Nedaleko je kaňon Verdon a také hodnotné lezení na vápencových skalách kolem Nice.

JirkaS   [úpravy] 15:34 16.10.2002Tisk 

Reklama:


Související články:
Související průvodce:

Komentáře

Nový komentář 

 Aha
"...který místní lezce donutil, ... k vysekání chytů a stupů" - no tak buď tam ta cesta je, nebo není, ne? Jaképak sekání, vytvořit si umělou stěnu na skalním bloku může kdejaký učeň s kladivem a majzlíkem. Podle mě je to prasečina, osumcéčko neosumcéčko.
Zapsal: Honza Hrb, 16:24:53 16.10.2002
 bonjur
Cau Jirko, uchvatny clanek! Nepremyslel jsi nekdy pracovat pro National Geographic?
Tesim se na dalsi prizpevky ze slunne francie



Zapsal: Honza, 23:02:54 16.10.2002
 jen na okraj
Neni to spis tak, ze jezero Lac de St. Croix je napajeno z kanonu? Myslim, ze je to totiz prehrada. (Fakt to nevim jiste)
Zapsal: Hanka, 05:29:16 17.10.2002
 byl jsem tam
V Annotu jsem byl, moc pěkné, ale vysekaných cest je tam myslím naprostá většina.
Zapsal: Miláno, 06:11:37 17.10.2002
 Dobrá žába
.. a žába vydala na 5 večeří..
Zapsal: , 07:26:14 17.10.2002
 Dobra pripominka
Jezero se jmenuje Lac Castilion a uz jsem to opravil.
Zapsal: JirkaS, 08:50:53 17.10.2002
 sekání
vysekání cest:-) --- nějak sem na tuto nedozrál-prostě to nechápu ... běs!!! a jěště kvůli tomu jet do Francie:-)
Zapsal: Travä, 11:10:05 17.10.2002
 Jeste k Annotu
Honza to mozna vystihl lepe nez ja, u nekterych cest, zejmena u lehcich jsme s Hopem neprisli na to, zda je zcela prirodni nebo ne. Kazdopadne, krajina je pekna zalezete si skvele ve vsech stupnich a za rohem sotva pak kilometru je klasicke francouzke vapno, tak v tomto ohledu Annot jiste muze byt zpestrenim.
Honzo, foto se vzdy hodi.
Zapsal: JirkaS, 10:24:00 18.10.2002
 info k annotu
ted jsem to vyhrabal z bookmarku-dobra stranka o lezeni v annotu je http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/4755/climbing/annot/
je tam i nakres jrozmisteni jednotlivych bloku a dobre fotky, doporucene cesty atd., ted tam ale nejezdete, je to v primorskych alpach:-)
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